It was a busy day. Late in the afternoon I found myself judging a chili cook-off at the ATCO Kitchen for the Boys’ and Girls’ Club of Calgary — not the ideal way to reintroduce regular food after two days of an upset stomach. Later that evening I attended an organizational meeting for Ramsay Rocks, our community event, which is now only a week and a half away. By nearly 11 pm I was glad to be home, remove my contacts, and sit at the computer with a mug of tea and a slice of plain cake — suitably titled busy day.
The busy days Edna Lewis described from her childhood were very different: “Our busiest days were, of course, when we were canning, putting up watermelon-rind pickles and Seckel pears, making blackberry jelly, and preparing the brine for cucumber pickles.”
Edna Lewis is one of the most celebrated Southern cooks of modern times; she has often been called a Southern Julia Child. Her book, The Taste of Country Cooking, reads like a balm—warm and comforting as she reminisces about growing up in Freetown, Virginia. A short documentary, Fried Chicken and Sweet Potato Pie, offers a glimpse of her life and work.
One of the first lessons I learned from Miss Lewis years ago was about baking powder. She measured it by piling it on a dime when she didn’t have measuring spoons, and she preferred to make her own, believing commercial double-acting baking powder could leave a metallic aftertaste. Her homemade version is simple: sift together 1/4 cup cream of tartar and 2 tablespoons baking soda, store it in a tightly sealed container, and use it as you would regular baking powder.
